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How to turn back the clock by enhancing your brows with PMU...

Updated: Apr 8


Having thicker, gorgeous eyebrows has been the beauty trend taking the world by storm. Everyone wants that perfectly structured yet unkempt "fluffy" brow to enhance their appearance and youthful look. No longer is the theory that thin brows make you look younger...now thick beautiful brows are the magic "pill" to keep us all looking younger. This new trend has most women over the age of 35 looking angrily over at our mothers for ever letting us pick up a pair of tweezers. I can't tell you how many pictures I have of myself in my 20s with pencil thin eyebrows believing I was looking good...yikes...


So what if you were one of those young girls like me that picked up tweezers and followed in your mother's footsteps of over-plucking? Or you just weren't blessed with beautiful brows in the first place or you lost them due to a disorder like alopecia or a condition like cancer?? Are there any options to turn back the hands of time??


Drum roll please.....Yes, welcome to the world of permanent makeup...


So many people are unsure of exactly what this is, what the procedures entails, etc..so I am writing this blog to answer the most common questions so that if you are interested in enhancing your brows with permanent makeup you can have all the information to make a real, informed decision.


So what is permanent makeup and is it really permanent?


The techniques done at Koa are intended to fade overtime. There is a large debate over whether these techniques are considered semi-permanent or permanent. Here at Koa it is the belief that although the work fades overtime, and can completely fade if clients never come back for a touch up, the procedure itself is still altering the skin. It is important that before clients decide to commit to one of these techniques they understand this fact.


What techniques do you offer??


The procedures I currently offer are:


Combination Brows (Hair stroke Design + Shading)- This is the best of both worlds. Hair strokes are added that mimic the look of real hair while being combined with shading which mimics the look of "bulk" you see in real brows. These combined techniques create a 3D effect that looks like real hair. This procedure is best for clients with normal/dry skin, who do not scar or bleed easily. This is not for people who have thin skin, oily skin or sensitive skin.


Powder Brows- This technique is only shading being added to the brows which achieves a bulk look that allows for clients to throw their brow makeup away permanently. It is achieved by using a machine and it can be extremely natural or bold depending on the aesthetic of the client. The powder brow technique is the most gentle technique, heals the best on all skin types and lasts the longest.


Who can have these procedures done?


Permanent Makeup is ideal for anyone looking to enhance the look of their eyebrows no matter how much or little eyebrow hair you currently have. Some prospective clients fear artists will remove their existing hair, this is not true. Artists will keep as much natural hair as possible, however, light tweezing around the decided shape might occur. No hair is ever removed without the client agreeing.


Clients with no eyebrow hair are perfect clients for any procedures Koa offers. Shading can accompany hair strokes to create a fuller 3D effect or powder brows can be done for an easy on the go daily brow that needs zero maintenance.


You can not have this procedure done if you suffer from certain medical conditions, skin conditions present in the brow area or you are pregnant or nursing. For more information please check out the Q&A section under the Brows tab on our website.



Does it hurt?


The pain, if any, is extremely minor. Clients sit for 25 minutes to pre-numb with a topical treatment and then another numbing product is applied throughout the procedure. 

There is minor to no bleeding during the procedure. Please review the pre-care instructions as they are important to limit bleeding and skin sensitivities. Excessive bleeding due to alcohol consumption and/or blood thinners before procedure can dilute/expel pigment leading to poorer results. Please note that getting the procedure done during your menstrual cycle can lead to a increase in discomfort.

Frequent smoking can lead to the anesthetic not lasting as long along with poor color retention. Clients with Fibromyalgia might also have a higher sensitivity to the procedure.


What factors affect permanent make-up?


  • Sun exposure

  • Regeneration of skin cells - the longer the regeneration the longer the pigment remains in the skin. Retin A, etc, speed up skin regeneration.

  • Skin type (oily vs dry) - oily/combo skin can expel pigment faster.

  • Smoking- can effect the longevity and quality of the work.

  • Bleeding during the procedure - avoid alcohol, caffeine and blood thinning medications.

  • How well you follow the aftercare and treat the work after it is healed.


More details on all of the above are included in the before care/aftercare instructions.

What is the healing period like?


You can expect after the procedure some mild swelling and redness, however this generally subsides within hours after the procedure. During the first couple of days pigment tends to look darker and sharper. During the end of week 1 to week 2 the skin will begin to naturally exfoliate and shed, flaking can occur. It is important to follow all aftercare directions and to not pick or scratch the eyebrow area. Eyebrows will generally look lighter after exfoliation. Weeks 4-6 skin completes the healing process and pigment becomes more visible.

What should I do to prepare for my appointment?


  • Bring any photos of eyebrows that you like. Wear the normal make-up you wear so I can see your shape and color preferences.

  • Do not wax, tweeze or thread eyebrows for a minimum of a week before procedure.

  • Avoid blood thinning medications (ibuprofen, aspirin, niacin, fish oil) for a minimum of 2 days prior to your procedure.

  • Keep alcohol intake to a minimum of 2 days prior to and after your procedure. Do not drink any alcohol 24 hours prior to your procedure.

  • Avoid caffeine before your appointment.

  • Do not use Retin A skincare products close to your brows for a minimum of 1 month before your procedure.

  • Laser Hair Removal should be preformed no less than 2 weeks prior to your procedure.

  • Chemotherapy should be received no less than 3 months prior to your procedure.

  • Botox should be preformed no less than 1 month before and after procedure.

  • Accutane should be used no less than 1 year before procedure.

  • Avoid sun tanning 14 days before and after procedure. If you come to your appointment sun burned your appointment will be rescheduled and deposit forfeited.


What are the After-care Instructions?


Aftercare instructions are made personally for each client as each client has different skin. Aftercare will be provided after each appointment.


How long will it last?


Pigment will fade overtime. All brow procedures are multi-step processes. There is a 30-50% fade that occurs during the healing process after the initial appointment. Due to the fading a complimentary enhancement session is given for all brow procedures to address any changes and/or fading.


There is no guarantee on how long it will last as each person has different skin and lifestyles but it is recommended that clients come in annually for a color refresh.


Frequency of touch up and color retention cannot be guaranteed and depends on skin type, pigment selection (lighter pigments fade faster), lifestyle choices (smoking, sun exposure), iron deficiency, chemical peels, etc. Aftercare (how the client takes care of their skin) is extremely important for the longevity of the work.


Who do I contact for more information??


Contact Kieran at kieran@koalash.com to receive a free consultation.


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